5.1.1 Tasks
Before any voyage, the captain must insure that each of these items has been performed: Give intro to ship — point out bow, stern, port, starboard, mast, head (the one at the front) and other salient features of the ship. Assign watches Check equipment (see below) Review rowing commands (§ 5.5) Explain safety procedures There is a more complete checklist in Appendix D.

5.1.2 Equipment
The captain must insure that each of these pieces of equipment has been fetched, checked, or tested, as appropriate: Longship - one (1) Viking longship, 12–Oar class, floating Oars - one per anticipated rower, plus a couple spares. Usually, a pair of the heavy oars for the “horsepower” types; and possibly a pair of the lighter 10' oars for smaller crew or larger children, are useful additions, as circumstances dictate. Water - a gallon per crew member per day in hot weather Sail, sheets & braces - sail bent to the yard Anchor & Line - Boat Hook - Bilge Pump or Bucket - Two Dock Lines - an absolute minimum Safety Equipment: PFDs (Life Jackets) - One/Person + 2 throwing cushions.     Make locations known to the crew. 3 Flares (NOT expired) Weather Radio & Battery (test it) Anchor & Masthead Lights (test them) 2 Fire Extinguishers - Mounted in brackets,     examine gauges to be sure they’re in operable condition. Flashlight and/or lantern - in case we are caught out after dark     (which can happen even on a casual day voyage). First Aid Kit Navigational Equipment: Charts Compass Log Book, Writing implement & Timepiece There is a more complete equipment list in Appendix C.

Sæ Hrafn normally is stored on, and launched and retrieved from, her submersible trailer.

If the Sæ Hrafn is on a non–submersible trailer, or there is no launch ramp, and she requires a travel–lift or crane to launch her, the lifting straps should be run so that they pass across the points reinforced by the 1st and 5th thwarts (indicated by an arrow marked on the knees).

Make sure that the weep holes in the garboard strakes are properly plugged. After the winter, the ship will take about 24 hours to swell tight, so you’ll need to make some provision for leaving her in the slings or having her pumped out.

When bringing a Viking vessel into dock, there are three main points to remember:

1. When possible put the port side to the pier. This avoids fouling the steerboard on pilings or planks. (It’s also why it’s called the port side, remember?)

2. It is almost impossible to dock under sail. Even large merchant vessels had oar ports; and we have brought the Fyrdraca in — in calm conditions — rowed by two men and a boy. Oars are sure and forgiving.

3. When you’re at the oars, pay attention. Commands come quickly in crowded harbors. When the order to ship oars is given, do it fast and do it right. Captains have a tendency to shave things close.

Once the bowmen have a hold on the pier, pilings, or such, it is time to set the docklines. Docklines are never attached to the ship’s cleats. The cleats are for running rigging and the steerboard. Instead, take two round turns over an appropriate thwart and then two half–hitches (§ 1.4.6). Run the line over the gunwale to the piling or cleat on the pier. Alternatively: throw the eye over the piling and adjust the line from inboard.

When docking, you must take the tide into account. Boats have been mashed into pilings, trapped and sunk under docks, or left hanging high and dry by their lines for neglect of this.

Proper tying–off of the ship is a matter of experience and judgment, but the following procedures will give you something to go on.

5.3.1 Four point system
5.3.1.1 Low tide   Make sure the tide is, in fact, at low. Leave no more than a foot of slack in each line, and make sure the ship doesn’t come near pier or pilings. 5.3.1.2 High tide   Make sure it’s high. Leave plenty of slack. Then perform the shove test: shove the vessel towards all four pilings — and any other fixed objects — and make sure it doesn’t come closer than one foot to them. 5.3.1.3 In between   Use your judgment, based on this information. Good luck.

5.3.2 When docked alongside
As the occasion demands, run out bow lines, stern lines, spring lines, breast lines, and fenders. Unless conditions allow two anchors to be set for a four–point system, a watch will have to be kept for the tide.

Operating under oars in normal circumstances we should have a captain or officer at the con, a lookout at the bow (or the best location for visibility), a steersman at the helm, a yeoman at the log, and a cox’n cheerily calling the stroke. The normal watch under oars is divided into 3 watches: 40 minutes rowing and 20 minutes resting. There is constant rotation of the watches: if you’re on the first watch on the starboard oars you will be relieved by the third watch after 40 minutes. After a generous 20 minute rest period (during which you might serve as lookout or steersman) you get to relieve the second watch at the port oars. Repeat ad infinitum or until arrival. The duration of the watches may be varied to suit the situation, but 40 min. on and 20 min. off seems about optimal, and is easier to remember since it puts everything on an hourly cycle.

5.4.1 Lookout
We are required to maintain a proper lookout whenever the ship is not moored. The lookout is stationed at the bow, and reports to the captain anything which may affect the conduct of the voyage — in particular dangers such as submerged objects, or approaching vessels. In unusually tight situations, the lookout may be permitted to issue rowing commands in order to maneuver the ship precisely. The lookout should be aware of the full 360° around the ship. Vessels astern can be just as dangerous as vessels ahead. The lookout is particularly important when the sail is up — since it usually obscures the view from the helm — or when the rest of the crew is distracted by something such as un–fouling the sail. When you are lookout, pay attention to where the ship is headed, no matter how exciting things get on board. It’s no fun to be so distracted by one disaster that we blindly sail straight into the next one. Most serious accidents are caused by something minor which is allowed to get out of hand.

5.4.2 Helm
The helmsman maintains the course specified by the captain, and also keeps a general lookout. The ship is steered — as much as possible — with the tiller, but this may be supplemented by rowing commands when the steerboard and tiller are not set at all; or when there is not enough steerageway so that the tiller alone is insufficient to maintain course.

The regular stroke is relatively light and done mostly from the upper chest and arms. Traditionally, it has been a light, quick, short, almost choppy stroke, however tests have shown that a longer, slower stroke may be more efficient. The ship relies on the cumulative, coordinated power of the rowers, rather than the sheer strength of any individual rower. You are usually neither playing Ben Hur nor digging for oysters on the bottom. Your oar should dip only to its natural buoyancy point, the blade just immersed. Keep your eye on the cox’n’s shoulders, rather than their oar, and don’t go wandering off on your own beat. As occasion demands you may be asked to vary the stroke, for instance, to slow it down or put more power into it, or to row in “waltz time.” Once again keep your eye on the cox’n.

Unless the captain specifies otherwise, the cox’n is the sternmost rower on the port side. If no one on the port side is rowing, the cox’n is simply the sternmost rower. When the situation changes — due perhaps to an entire side of the ship holding oars, or the current cox’n pausing to be relieved — the appropriate person assumes the role of cox’n without an explicit order being given. Everyone is assumed to know this rule, and expected to follow the correct rower.

To lose control of your oar in the water (Catching a Crab) can result in a broken oar and a broken strake. The oar is caught by the stream of water flowing past the ship, and drawn down and back, levering against the oar–port with bone–crunching force. This is usually caused by inattention on the part of rowers who have allowed their oar to drift into a position allowing it to be caught this way, but it can sometimes be caused by a warped oar. If you catch a crab you should immediately yell “Crab” and throw your body over the loom of the oar to force the blade up out of the water. When the other rowers hear the cry “Crab”, they should immediately hold oars and await further commands.

The best way to avoid catching a crab is to hold your oar sightly tilted so that the upper edge is slightly forward of the lower edge. This causes the flow of water to have a tendency to lift the oar out of the water rather than draw it down. If your hands get tired while rowing, don’t hesitate to change your grip on the oar as frequently as you feel necessary, if that helps. If you find yourself out of sync with the other rowers, do not attempt to catch up with them, you will probably only foul yourself up worse; instead: skip a stroke and join in again when everyone else has caught up to you.

If you notice that you suddenly are having much greater difficulty staying synchronized with everyone else, it is probably the first sign that you are getting tired. Don’t hesitate to ask for relief if you become exhausted. There is usually someone else willing to row, and if there’s not, it’s probably time for the entire crew to take a rest.

5.5.1 Commands
5.5.1.1 Raise (or Ready) oars   Take the oars down from the oar–rack, and raise them to a vertical position with the blade at the top, the rowers standing.   5.5.1.2 Set oars   Place the blades of the oars in the water, holding the handle securely and keeping the blade feathered. Push the oar away from the ship so the handle is beyond the gunwale, pass the handle through the oarport, and draw the oar inwards to rowing position. The narrow–bladed 12' oars of the Sæ Hrafn are also designed to be set from inboard, and you will be so instructed in the “rowing commands” briefing.   5.5.1.3 Hold oars   Press down on the loom to raise the oar out of the water, and hold it there.

5.5.1.4 Give way   Row forward. This command is properly given in three parts: Captain to crew: “Stand by to Give Way” Captain to coxswain: “Give Way” Coxswain to crew: “Ready, Stroke, Stroke, Stroke … ”   5.5.1.5 Hold water   Raise the loom of the oar, dipping the blade in the water — leading edge up — and hold it still. This command is used to slow or stop the ship, or to keep it from drifting when stopped. If the order is given when the ship is stationary, you should immediately drop the blade all the way into the water, but if the ship is moving, dip only the tip of the blade in the water, and gradually lower it the rest of the way in only as far as you feel you can while still maintaining control of the oar. If you drop it in too fast, the momentum of the ship may overpower your grip, resulting in damage to the oar, the ship, yourself, or fellow Crewmembers.   5.5.1.6 Back water   Row backwards, pushing the oar away from you instead of pulling it towards you. To turn the ship in place, one side may row forward while the other backwaters. (Or “backs water”; there may be some debate among nautical pedants on this point.)

5.5.1.7 Ship oars   Bring the oars inside the boat. This is the opposite of Set Oars. The end result is that the oars will be in the same position as after Raise Oars, but now they will be wet and dripping over everything. If using the narrow–bladed 12' oars of the Sæ Hrafn and you are shipping the oars through the oar ports instead of over the gunwhale, be sure that you do not run the handle of the oar into the head of your thwart–mate, or vice versa. 5.5.1.8 Rack oars   On vessels so equipped, lay the oars on the Oar–racks, blades toward the bow. As Sæ Hrafn doesn’t presently have oar–racks, lay the oars across the thwarts, inboard next to the mast. Do not foul the halyards or other rigging or equipment, nor place them all on the same side of the ship. 5.5.1.9 Point oars   The crew stands and handles the oars like canoe paddles. This is useful for maneuvering in tight places. 5.5.1.10 Shove off   Push the ship sideways away from the dock or shore until clear of obstructions, using boathooks or oars as poles.

5.5.1.11 In bows   The two rowers nearest the bow ship their oars and prepare to dock the boat. This usually means getting one or more boathooks ready, preparing dock lines, or untangling the anchor line. 5.5.1.12 Frog oars   Draw the oar inwards until the handle reaches the inside of the opposite gunwale. Brace the handle there, as low as it can conveniently reach. This is typically used when under sail, to keep the oars ready in case of an emergency. You may be directed to “feather” your oar, which means to turn the blade parallel to the water so as to avoid drag from too much wind or too high a chop in the waves. 5.5.1.13 Quarter oars (Formerly “Cramp oars”)   Draw the oar partway in, but continue rowing. This is used to row thorough narrow channels. If in doubt as to whether the ship can fit through anyplace with quartered oars, point the oars instead. 5.5.1.14 Throw oars   Shove the oar outwards with enough force that it will continue until it is clear of the ship. Do not attempt to hang onto the oar. This is used in emergencies where the ship is coming up against a fixed object or another boat is coming up alongside us, with enough force to endanger our ship or crew. Since this order is used in critical situations, it must be performed quickly. The oars are made of wood; they will float. We can go back and pick them up later. (What’s that? You wonder how we can go back if we’ve thrown our oars overboard? That’s why we brought along spares, remember?) Under no circumstances is this to be done unless you are so ordered by the captain.

5.5.1.15 Sequential Start   A Sequential Start is used when trying to make a “showy” impression when in harbor before the public; when trying to break–in inexperienced oarsmen; or when the oarsmen are so out of synchronization that it’s necessary to start again. The sequence starts from “Hold oars.” (§ 5.5.1.3) The command is: “Prepare for sequential start. Give way (first thwart … )” On the command, only the first (aftmost manned) thwart gives way. On the next stroke, the second manned thwart joins in; then the third, &c. in sequence until all manned thwarts are in motion and (hopefully) in stroke. Please Note: This maneuver should not be used in high headwinds or in any situation where full control and steerageway of the ship is immediately needed.

When under sail the entire configuration of the crew changes. The captain or an appointed sailing master has the con. The lookout must make sure that the sail does not obscure their view. The port and starboard sheets are each handled by individual Crewmembers. The braces are handled by an additional (or sometimes two additional) Crewmembers. Two people attempting to adjust the yard simultaneously can lead to a tug–O–war, so one person handling both braces usually works out better. A pair of crew handle the halyards when hoisting or furling the sail. Steersman and yeoman are the same as under oar.

The overall trim of the ship is critical while under sail. If everyone crowds to the bow for a good view, or to “look heroic” she’ll mush down and lose steerage. If everyone is in the stern, she won’t reach well. With 1,500 lbs. or more of ballast (crew) she can be sailed flat, with minimal heel. This — under normal conditions — generates maximum power in the sail and minimum leeway at the keel. Under sail, they also serve who only sit, or even sleep, as long as they do it in the right place.

 

5.6.1 Sailing theory
The propulsion of a vehicle with one solid wing and several variously–shaped semi–rigid wings at the interface of two turbulent fluids of different densities is enough to cause vast numbers of folks to expend many millions of dollars to gain 1/10th of a knot, so let’s skip that approach. A keel is like an ice skate: it goes a lot more easily forward or backward than it does sideways. When the keel does slip sideways, that’s called leeway, and all keels do it. At any point of sail other than a dead run, you’re going to slip down a little to the leeward. A sail is like a kite or an airplane wing. On a dead run it just catches the wind and uses the energy to push itself along. When running on a reach the air flows across the sail instead of pushing it, which develops lift as in an airplane’s wing. This milks more energy out of the wind, enabling the vessel to sail faster than on a dead run. (This is one case where a straight–line is not the shortest distance between two points; it is theoretically faster to take a longer zigzag course — called jibing — to avoid running.)

5.6.2 Points of sail
The various orientations of the wind direction relative to the bearing of the ship are called points of sail. The major ones are:   5.6.2.1 Dead run:   The wind is coming from directly astern. The sail is held at a right angle to the wind.

5.6.2.2 Broad reach:   The wind is coming from about four points off of dead astern. Some lift is generated by the flow of the wind across the sail, as opposed to directly into it. 5.6.2.3 Beam reach:   The wind is coming from the side of the ship. The sail is held oblique to the wind. The shape of the sail becomes important since most of the thrust is being generated by lift. 5.6.2.4 Close reach or Close hauled:   The wind is coming from ahead of the beam. The shape of the sail becomes critical since we’re trying to eke out every last ounce of thrust from the wind. The Sæ Hrafn does not sail well with the wind ahead of the beam. The use of a betias pole to keep the leading edge of the sail taut is advised. 5.6.2.5 Under oars:   This is our usual “sailing” configuration. Hoisting sail is a sure means of getting the wind to change direction to be from directly ahead.

5.6.3 Beaufort scale   Among sailors, the Beaufort Scale has long been the conventional standard for judging the force of the wind. It correlates wind velocity with the behavior you may expect from the sea, ships, and — for the sake of completeness — various objects on land (not that they are of major concern to us). 5.6.4 Emergency commands   When things go wrong under sail, they go wrong fast. Seconds count. Uncleat your sheet(s) Release your sheet from the cleat and keep the sheet in hand or with a single round turn around the cleat, for control. Let go your sheet(s) Let the sheets go, keeping only the bitter end of the line. This lets the sail fly and takes the pressure off the mast. Let your sheet(s) fly Let go the bitter end. Cut the sheet With a knife, fast, because it’s jammed up and you are in peril. This same series is applicable — in extreme circumstances — to the halyards. Eg.: Uncleat the halyards, Let go the halyards, Cut the halyards. These command are rarities, but all of them have been used in our experience.

5.7 Point system
Bearings are indicated by the point system: 32 points to a full circle, 4 points to a 45° sector. Please study the diagram below, and learn the principles behind these names. (Click to enlarge.) We use this system because: First: until the mid–20th century, all compasses were marked into 32 points. A fragment of what may well have been an actual Viking navigational instrument was notched in one–point increments. Second: in the crowded conditions in which we usually operate, exact bearings are a matter of necessity and safety. There’s an important difference between the general description “Two boats coming from starboard.” and “One boat closing broad on the starboard bow and one boat closing on the starboard quarter.” In a tight situation this difference becomes more than just a matter of being able to use a bunch of neat–sounding nautical jargon.

5.8 Rights of way
The “Rules of the Road” apply at any time the danger of collision with another vessel exists. This means any time two vessels are on courses which will bring them close enough that it is not certain that they will pass safely. They do not apply to vessels whose courses are carrying them away from one another, or are so far apart that actions by either or both of them cannot produce imminent danger of collision. One rule of thumb for determining the danger of collision is to observe the bearing of an approaching vessel. If its bearing does not change, you are on a collision course, and must be prepared to take evasive action if the situation doesn’t change before you get close to it. A quick rule of thumb when in a meeting situation with another vessel that is also under sail is “wind to the port — abort”. In other words, you give way if the wind is from your port side or quarter. n.b. Sailboats with the sail(s) down and under power, or with the sail up and under power (signaled by an inverted black cone from the spreaders or yardarm during the day and by a “power boat” configuration of the running lights during the night, but most commonly signaled by an obscure plume of exhaust observable only under keen observation most of the time) are regarded as power boats for the purpose of rules of the road. (See below.) The greatest rule of thumb is what was known as the general prudential rule, which held that even if you have the right of way, you have no right to enforce it at the peril of your vessel and crew. This is also summed up in the old Longship Company saying “When in doubt, chicken out.”. Right of way is why LSCo skippers have to take formal courses.

5.8.1 Approaching a power–driven vessel   Sailing vessels have right–of–way over power driven vessels except: when overtaking a power–driven vessel from behind, or when the power–driven vessel is restricted in its ability to maneuver because it is in a narrow channel, or has fishing nets deployed. You are approaching a vessel from behind if you are approaching from within six points of dead astern. If you approach from directly abeam the other ship, or even up to two points abaft the beam, this is a crossing, not an overtaking situation. At night, you are approaching a vessel from behind if you can see its white sternlight, and in a crossing situation if you can see its colored sidelights. 5.8.2 Approaching a sailing vessel   When two sailing vessels approach one another, if they have the wind on opposite sides, the one with the wind from the port side yields to the other. If they have the wind on the same side, the vessel to windward must yield to the leeward vessel. This — of course — is how things are supposed to work. In actual practice, any vessel over 65' has, and will take the right of way from smaller vessels. Steer clear! De Big Boat have de Right–o–way.

5.9 Use of Mast and Anchor Lights and legal requirements
For night operation, the Sæ Hrafn is equipped with a 12–volt combination three–way running light / anchor/under–oars light, at the masthead. The three–way masthead light is required when the ship is under sail at night. When the ship is moving under oar power at night, either the white anchor light or the tri–color must be displayed. At anchor at night, the white light is to be displayed. Either the white–all–around or tri–color may be selected by reversing the polarity of the electrical leads in the mast. The Gyrfalcon (being under 7 meters long) is required to carry a “white electric torch or lantern displayed in time to prevent collision” when operating at night.

5.10 Use of the Færing
The Gyrfalcon is used in two modes: either as an afterboat (dinghy) in consort with the Sæ Hrafn, or independently. 5.10.1 As an Afterboat   In the role as an afterboat the færing is the responsibility of the captain, who will supervise the use of the færing and its crewing, and exercise judgment regarding weather conditions and suitability to the task assigned. The ship and færing are a joint responsibility in this case, and the færing does not require a captain onboard. 5.10.2 Towing   The primary painter when under tow should be led low through the lower hole in the stem. A secondary (slacked) painter may be led higher up to serve as a backup. The painter should be about 50 feet long, but the actual towing length will vary according to conditions. The shorter the painter, the less yawing you are likely to get, but the chance of the afterboat running into your stern increases. When under tow, it should be constantly checked and adjusted as conditions change. A stern–down trim, effected by loading backup water containers (full) and other material into the stern of the boat is advantageous to prevent yawing, as is a neutral–buoyancy low–drag sea anchor (a 2–liter plastic soft–drink bottle filled with water) dragged from the stern painter. Oars and extra gear should be tied down or kept on the ship. At anchor, the færing will normally hang aft of the ship, to leeward. Conditions of wind and current may, however, conspire to bring the two vessels together, to the mutual detriment of each. This usually occurs at 03:00 in the rain. If conditions are mild the two may be rafted together, with a goodly quantity of well–placed fenders between. If things are a little rougher it may be fastened to one or two projecting spars to hold it out away from the hull. 5.10.3 Shore runs   When used as a dinghy to ferry people ashore, given good conditions, the færing can leave with five crew and be rowed back by one. In this manner a crew of fifteen (leaving two on watch on the ship) may be ferried ashore in two and a half round trips. Once ashore, the færing must be secured against all natural or human harm, or an additional watch set for it. Setting a færing watch has the advantage of providing the ship’s watch with transportation if needed. 5.10.4 Independent operation   A captain is required for all independent voyages of the færing. Since she is transported on a “dry” cradle and trailer, the færing requires at least four people to launch her from the trailer. Therefore a crew of four or five will probably be the norm for independent operation.

All weight should be removed when lifting the færing onto or off of the trailer. Get help if a launch is difficult, and hand carry the færing to the water’s edge. Never get the trailer in the water; it is not made for it. 5.10.5 Boarding and safety   The Gyrfalcon has very low initial stability (“to the wrong side of a canoe”) which means that if you board it wrong, or make a wrong move, you (and probably everyone already on board) will be going for an unexpected swim. She does, however, grow stiffer as more crew board her. When boarding, step to the center (on the keel, not the thwart) keeping your weight low and balanced. Move carefully to your assigned position and sit down. Do not overload the boat. A five–person maximum (with no heavy equipment) is all she will take in good to moderate conditions. If the weather picks up, four is more sensible. Three is the standard crew for rowing, and the minimum for sailing. When used as a dinghy, one can row it back to the ship. With all crew seated and weight stowed low, any change of position should be announced beforehand and carried out slowly and deliberately. Do not stand up! People changing positions fore and aft, especially around the mast, will need to coordinate their motions so as to balance each other as they place their centers of gravity further out on the beam. A life vest will accompany each Crewmember, and will be worn except in special situations, such as invasions and exhibitions. The færing must also carry at least one throwable flotation cushion, three flares, and — at night — a functioning flashlight or lantern.

5.11 Trailering the færing

5.11.1 Packing   Do not overload the rig. Keep any heavy objects in your car (on the floor, where you have no passengers) or in the stern of the færing. The tongue weight is about 170 pounds. Stern loading will help to keep it reasonable. The motion and vibration of towing causes chafing, so oars, spars and other items must be tied down and cushioned. Light objects such as life jackets and fenders must be either tied down or stowed in the car to prevent them from blowing away. Hard and heavy objects such as anchors and tool boxes should be carried in the vehicle to keep them from damaging the wooden hull. Before attempting to tow the færing, be sure to check each of these items: Trailer Tongue attached? Safety Chains attached? Electrical System Connected: Test running lights, brake lights and turn signals. Mast Lowered? Boat tied down? Red Towing Flag attached to stern? Trailer registration in your possession? Bolt or lock Trailer Hitch and don’t lose the key. 5.11.2 Overheating   Since your engine is working harder pulling the rig, it’s also running hotter. Before you leave, be sure your radiator is full and the cap secure. (It would also be wise to check your oil, battery, transmission fluid, tire pressure, etc. while you’re at it.) If you have time for it, you should make a mid–trip stop to let things cool down, check under the hood, and give yourself a break. Inspect the rig while you’re at it, and check the trailer hubs to see if they’re running hot from any bearing trouble. If you suspect that your engine is in danger of overheating, you should run the car’s heater. Since it works by drawing heat from the engine coolant, it will assist the radiator in keeping the engine temperature down. 5.11.3 Potholes, bumps and railroad tracks   Because of the trailer’s small–diameter wheels and its light cargo, the whole rig tends to fall into depressions in the road, then launch itself into the air. Keeping your speed down on unfamiliar back roads or potholed highways gives you a chance to steer around an obstacle or slow down to minimize the impact, preventing damage to the trailer or the færing. Railroad tracks are the worst. If you must cross a badly–graded railroad, put on your emergency blinkers, come to a complete stop, look both ways and — if it’s clear — ease the rig across the tracks.

Navigation
Previous Chapter: 4 Stowage	Contents	Next Chapter: 6 - Safety