Crews get cold. Crews get wet. Crews get hungry. When they get cold enough, and/or wet enough and/or hungry enough, they become potential victims of hypothermia, which in its earlier stages dulls one’s judgment, leading to mistakes which make the crew colder, wetter, hungrier and more exhausted. Eventually it can kill outright, or cause someone to make a mistake that can kill another.

It is perhaps as big a danger as drowning, but a far less obvious menace. The great danger of hypothermia is that the victim is usually unaware that anything is happening to him. As one becomes more affected by cold, simple tasks take longer to accomplish or even understand.

The onset of hypothermia varies widely with individuals. Generally speaking, somewhat overweight people are less quickly affected than thin, wiry ones, but there are enough exceptions in either direction to make broad statements risky. Only by keeping warm and observing the actions of fellow Crewmembers can one spot the first slowing down of reactions. If one’s boat is spilled, unless it can be righted quickly, it’s best to conserve one’s body heat by not struggling without reason. Clothing that is not actually dragging one down will serve to retain some heat even when soaked — and it may well hold air and thus buoyancy as well.

See § 3.7 regarding special considerations when preparing for a voyage in cold weather.

Normally when the body is overheated, excess heat is eliminated through the cooling of the body surface by evaporation of sweat. In profuse sweating, however, large quantities of salt are lost and the essential salt balance of the body may be upset. Under conditions of high humidity and when tight or heavy clothing is worn, the cooling of the body by evaporation may be compromised, resulting in heat exhaustion, heat cramps, and ultimately, heat stroke.

Treatment for heat cramps should include giving the victim saltwater solution. Relief of cramps may also be obtained by massage of the cramping muscles, using firm pressure rather than vigorous kneading, and by applying warm, wet towels to the painful muscles.

In mild cases of heat exhaustion the patient usually feels tired and may experience headache and nausea. In severe cases perspiration is profuse, weakness extreme, and the skin is pale and clammy. The patient’s temperature is usually normal or subnormal. Vomiting may occur. Unconsciousness is rare, but often the patent will be unable to stand. Painful cramps in leg or arm muscles may begin suddenly and continue for as long as 24 hours.

Until proper medical help can be obtained, allow the victim to rest in a cool location. Give him cool salted water to drink (one teaspoon salt per quart of water).

In contrast to heat cramps and heat exhaustion, a person with heat stroke usually has a high fever (105°F. or higher), and no evident perspiration. His skin is hot and dry. Symptoms include headache, dizziness, irritability and seeing objects through a reddish or purplish haze. The patient may suddenly become unconscious, the pulse is full and strong, breathing is noisy like snoring, and there may be convulsions. This is a life–threatening situation.

The first efforts in treatment of heat stroke should be to reduce the fever rapidly. Undress the patient and put him to bed in the coolest available area, possibly in the water if this is feasible. Sponge his body freely with water or alcohol to reduce his temperature to 102°F. or less. Vigorous efforts to reduce fever should be stopped when the body temperature reaches this point (102°F.), and the patient should be observed for 10 minutes.

The temperature may continue to decline or it may rise again. If it starts to rise, renew sponging cautiously. Damp sheets or blankets may be placed over the victim to maintain the temperature at or below 102°F. Give no stimulants such as coffee or tea. Nor should you give alcohol. Administer salt solution, as soon as it can be tolerated, provided the patient is fully conscious. (One half teaspoon of salt in a glassful of water every 15 minutes for 3 hours.) Arrange transportation to a hospital as soon as possible.

Caution: Do not attempt to force an unconscious person to drink anything.

There are two kinds of heavy weather to consider — heavy weather that you expect — and can avoid being caught out in — and the sudden unexpected squall. Sooner or later you’re going to find yourself caught out when the wind is stronger than you’d like it to be.

Squalls can be unnerving simply because they give you little time to prepare. Even the fastest moving squall line will nevertheless allow you the few minutes you need to get your boat in shape to handle it. Remember too, that a fast–moving squall has one great virtue — it’s over in a hurry. Often a squall will last only a few minutes, seldom more than half an hour.

The first step when it becomes obvious that you’re likely to be caught in a squall, is to have all hands put on their lifejackets. Not only should every Crewmember have a lifesaving device of proper size, but everyone should wear it whenever there’s any threat of bad weather. A good lifejacket will give the Crewmember confidence, conserve body heat, and absorb some of the bumps that happen in rough weather.

The second step is to drop and furl the sail securely, until you know the strength of the advancing storm. A serious squall can pack winds up to 60 miles per hour or stronger. Secure all loose equipment, have a bailer or pump ready, and have the crew keep their weight low in the boat. If you’re upwind from a beach or shore, it would be well to put your anchor out and set it, to avoid being blown ashore.

NWS Marine Warnings

These are issued by the Local Weather Service Office, according to criteria which may change depending on location and “usual conditions”. It is what you would get on the weather radio or from the NWS Warning Map. Everything except the Special Marine Warning is an advance warning, the SMW being more of a “nasty storm heading your way soon” alert. The SMW and Small Craft Advisory are the only ones that there is a decent chance we will actually encounter, as any worse conditions would almost certainly result in voyages being scrubbed.

Small Craft Advisory	Small Craft Advisories are issued for the Tidal Potomac River and the Chesapeake Bay when one or both of the following conditions is expected to begin within 36 hours: Sustained winds of 18 knots to 33 knots Frequent gusts (duration of two or more hours) between 18 knots and 33 knots. Waves of 4 feet or higher We do not usually cancel a voyage for a Small Craft Advisory, however we will curtail our activities and remain in sheltered water.
Gale Warning	Gale Warnings are issued for the Tidal Potomac River and the Chesapeake Bay when one or both of the following conditions is expected to begin within 36 hours and not directly associated with a tropical cyclone: Sustained winds of 34 knots to 47 knots Frequent gusts (duration of two or more hours) between 34 knots and 47 knots.
Storm Warning	Storm Warnings are issued for the Tidal Potomac River and the Chesapeake Bay, when one or both of the following conditions is expected to begin within 36 hours and not directly associated with a tropical cyclone: Sustained winds of 48 knots to 63 knots Frequent gusts (duration of two or more hours) of 48 knots to 63 knots
Hurricane Force Wind Warning	Hurricane Force Wind Warnings are issued for the Tidal Potomac River and the Chesapeake Bay when one or both of the following conditions is expected to begin within 36 hours and not directly associated with a tropical cyclone: Sustained winds of 64 knots or greater Frequent gusts (duration of two or more hours) of 64 knots or greater
Special Marine Warning	A warning of potentially hazardous weather conditions of short duration (up to 2 hours) affecting areas included in a Coastal Waters Forecast, that are not adequately covered by existing marine warnings and producing one or more of the following: Sustained marine convective winds (showers/thunderstorms) or associated gusts of 34 knots or greater Hail three quarters of an inch or more in diameter Waterspouts Sharknadoes

When you have lost someone overboard you have a possible life/death situation on your hands. As soon as you become aware that someone has fallen overboard, call “Man Overboard”. Someone should throw a flotation device (lifejacket or flotation cushion) as close to the victim as possible without hitting him with it. One of a bright color is desirable, to mark the victim’s location if he has sunk. Keep the victim in sight continually.

Get the boat under control. All too often someone goes overboard because the boat is out of control. It is a mistake to attempt a rescue before getting matters in hand. Typically this will mean dropping the sail and setting some oars if they have been shipped. (This is probably a good argument for keeping the oars frogged while sailing.)

Before attempting to recover the victim, secure him. At the moment of rescue, many people have ceased trying to keep afloat and have sunk before the eyes of their rescuers. Get a line under the victim’s arms and secure it. Unless the person is injured, no other person should go over the side to help — you can almost always help better from within the boat. The victim will be exhausted, scared, and probably so weighted down by clothing that he will be virtually helpless. In cold water the danger of hypothermia makes it important to get the person aboard as quickly as possible. Ease the victim gently over the gunwale, face down. People bend more readily in that direction, so it will avoid causing them back injury. Usually the best way is to get the torso up over the side and secured, then to grab a leg and heave it up into the ship.

We are required by law, to carry three day/night flares or one orange distress–flag and one electric distress light. We may pack a few extra, depending on the operation contemplated. These are to be used only when lives or property are threatened. Common sense dictates that they not be used until there is another vessel in sight and close enough to see them. These devices do not carry great weight in the duration and brilliance department, and the range of visibility listed in the advertisements are for a clear, still night, not when blowing half a gale in the murk.

Familiarize yourself with the launching procedures and characteristics of those carried aboard, and where they are stowed. (Usually, in the sea–chest at the stern.)

Additionally, distress signals may consist of: arm waving, flags, whistles, lights, and voice radio. In a bona–fide emergency anything that gets attention is legitimate.

If, through the natural hazards of the sea, or the intervention of an outside klutz, the vessel is capsized or holed, the cardinal rule is stay with the ship. Because of their peculiar unballasted construction, and the innovative use of wood for the hull and spars, Viking vessels will actually float without excessive coercion. If the hull is undamaged, or the hole can be fothered (temporarily patched) there is an excellent chance that she can be bailed out and restored to sailing trim. If the damage is too extensive to repair on the spot, (6" mortar shell, 18' ski boat, Wrath of God (Please specify which God.), &c) stay with the largest part.

Your first priority should be: secure yourself and your fellow crew into lifejackets and onto the vessel. Make sure everyone is accounted for. Second priority is to secure all safety equipment such as flares and extra flotation devices. Third priority is to secure all ship’s gear, such as oars and rigging, either for salvage or to return the ship to operable condition.

Stay with the ship, listen to the officers, and work together.

The only type of fire at all likely on board our replica Viking vessels is a class–A fire, that is wood, paper, cloth &c, as opposed to class–B: flammable liquids, or class–C: electrical. The sovereign remedy for most class–A fires on a vessel of our size is a bucket of water. It is cheap, available, and effective. On the Sæ Hrafn, we also carry two hand–held dry–chemical fire extinguishers: one in the bow and one in the stern. These should be used if you can beat the bucket, if we have a fire in our 12–volt electrical system, or on a fire aboard our powered tow boat or tender (which should have its own fire extinguisher(s)). Furthermore: under the requirement that we assist any vessel in distress — short of imperiling our vessel and crew — our equipment is on hand if needed to suppress a fire on another vessel.

The important points are: be quick, be thorough, and aim at the base of the fire.